Learning to Sew for Beginners: Part 1- Getting to Know Your Sewing Machine
If you want to learn how to sew, the first thing you need to do is get comfortable with using your sewing machine. I know hand sewing is a skill, but unless you’re planning to hand sew garments like a couture fashion house, sewing machines are where it’s at. Read ahead for tips on getting to know your machine before you even open a pattern.
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Before we get started, if you’re wondering what tools you need to begin sewing, you can find my list of must-haves here and a longer list of tools here. As for buying a sewing machine, I don’t recommend any model in particular, but if you’re just starting out there is no need to spend a fortune. I sewed for years on a cheaper model (they have discontinued the model I used, but it was a Brother machine very similar to this one) and it did everything I needed it to. You can check Craigslist or Facebook Marketplace for anyone looking to get rid of a sewing machine, and you can even check sewing machines out from some libraries!
Now, on to the basics of using your machine. Every model is different so the first thing you will need to do is break out that manual and do some reading on your model. Regardless of which brand of sewing machine you choose, every machine will have a few key components:
Bobbin and Bobbin Case: Bobbins are small plastic (sometimes metal) cylinders that hold the lower thread in your machine. The bobbin case is a metal case for the bobbin that holds it in your machine and ensures proper tension. When I first started sewing, loading the bobbin was my least favorite task. Some machines can be a bit finicky. Most machines come with bobbins, but you can easily buy more when/if you need them (just make sure you’re buying the right kind for your machine). You will find the bobbin case under a plastic lid right below your needle on the machine.
Needle: The needle is responsible for creating stitches. Your machine may have come with a few needles, but you will need to invest in a variety of types and styles. Read more about needle types here. Always replace your needle for each sewing project (I know not everyone abides by this, but I promise it will help your sewing and avoid frustrations like the dreaded thread nest.)
Presser Foot: This component holds the fabric in place while sewing. You can lift it up and down or remove it completely to replace it with a different foot. Different presser feet serve various purposes, such as sewing up close to zippers and automatically forming the shape of buttonholes. When you first begin sewing, using an all-purpose presser foot is fine for most projects. Your machine will come with an all-purpose foot and probably a few other common feet, like a buttonhole foot and a zipper foot.
Thread Guides: This is the path your thread follows as it travels from the spool pin on top of your machine down to the needle. Generally your machine will mark these paths with numbers indicating their order. Each machine is different here, so take a look at your manual to learn how to thread your machine. Practice threading your machine a few times to get the hang of it.
Tension Regulator: This is usually a dial on the front of your machine that allows you to adjust the tension of your stitches (i.e. how “tight” they are). Generally, the numbers 3-5 will be highlighted in some way, as this is the standard tension zone you will want to use for most sewing projects. I’m going to be honest and say I’ve never taken mine off 4.
Stitch Selector: Modern sewing machines offer a variety of stitches. The stitch selector allows you to choose the one that suits your project: straight stitches work for seams and hemming, while a zig zag is useful for finishing edges or sewing knits. Those are the most common stitches you will use, but there are hundreds more!
Section 2: Setting Up Your Sewing Machine
Now that you're acquainted with the machine's parts, let's set it up for action:
Thread the Machine:
Place a spool of thread on the spool pin.
Follow the threading path as indicated by the machine.
Thread the needle, ensuring it passes through all guides.
Insert the Bobbin:
Wind the bobbin with thread (following your machine’s instructions) and place it in the bobbin case.
Follow the bobbin threading path as indicated by your machine.
Adjust Stitch Length and Width:
Set the stitch length and width according to your project requirements. Your machine will have a “standard” for each stitch style (for example, my machine defaults for 2.5mm for a straight stitch) and it’s fine to just stick with this until you feel more confident.
Select the Right Needle:
Choose a needle suitable for your fabric type and thickness.
Attach the Presser Foot:
Snap on the appropriate presser foot for your chosen stitch. Again, an all-purpose presser foot is great to start out with.
Check Tension Settings:
Adjust the thread tension based on your fabric and thread. If you have just started sewing, use the default setting for this (usually somewhere between 3 and 5).
Section 3: Practicing Basic Stitches
Now that your machine is set up, it's time to practice some basic stitches. Start with straight stitches and gradually explore others:
Straight Stitch:
Practice sewing straight lines on scrap fabric.
Focus on maintaining a steady pace and going in a straight line.
Zigzag Stitch:
Experiment with zigzag stitching for seam finishing or decorative purposes.
Reverse Stitch/Backstitch:
Learn to use the reverse stitch function. Generally, you will begin and end all seams by reversing a few stitches to make your seam more secure.
Adjusting Stitch Length and Width:
Understand how changing stitch length and width affects your sewing. If you are basting (loosely holding two layers of fabric together) or gathering (creating a ruffled effect) you will use your longest stitch length, so you may want to practice using a long straight stitch to see how that is done.
Section 4: Troubleshooting Common Issues
As a beginner, you might encounter some common sewing machine issues. You should always consult the manual for your sewing machine before taking action, but here is a brief rundown of some problems you may experience:
Thread Tension Problems:
If your stitches look weird (like the thread is too loose and not flat against the fabric) your thread tension may be off. Try adjusting the thread tension dial on your machine. Do not ever attempt to adjust your bobbin tension. Seriously, just don’t do it. Take it to a professional if you think that might be the issue.
Thread Knots/Nests:
Not a single sewist has managed to completely avoid the dreaded thread nest. Sometimes you will be happily sewing along and suddenly your machine shudders, makes a loud clanking noise and beeps its displeasure. I honestly have no explanation for this, but if it happens, just breathe and know it will be fixed. Clip your threads if you can, try removing your bobbin, manually lift your needle if your machine will allow it, lift your presser foot as high as it goes and try to gently wiggle your project free. After this you will need to completely rethread your machine (upper thread and bobbin) and pick out the stitches that were affected. This is, in my opinion, the most frustrating but also commonplace sewing problem, so just get used to it, I guess? It’s closely followed by:
Your Machine Eating Your Fabric:
This is most common with very lightweight and slippery fabrics, so maybe avoid those while you build confidence. Fix the issue the way you would a thread nest (I especially like lifting out my bobbin and trimming the lower threads when I have this issue). Going forward, you may need to replace your needle or use a walking foot if this is happening frequently.
Broken Needles:
They happen! Replace it with a new needle and move on!
If all else fails, re-thread your machine and turn it off and on! I swear this fixes 99% of problems.
Conclusion:
Congratulations on taking your first steps into the world of sewing with a machine! Next step: Choosing a great project for beginners to get you off to the right start!
